After a night in our not so deluxe, deluxe hotel room we a sre woken at some ungodly hour by some sort of Moslem celebration being braodcast at full volume from a nearby mosque. The first thing we do is relocate to another slightly less deluxe, but quieter room at the other end of the hotel. We are allocated our tuk tuk driver of the day before, Mr Phal, who will drive us round the huge Angkor temple complex for three days for $45. A snip really. This is the South Gate.